18th September 2014, Thursday
Red Knight and I were raring to go after a day’s rest and rejuvenation. This was day I was waiting for since long. I had been dreaming about it since childhood and barely missed it 20 years ago. Red Knight and I shall be riding on the highest motorable road in the world this day.
Weather was absolutely perfect. It was sunny, bright and pleasant morning. I said goodbye to my wonderful hosts and rode to Shanti Stupa first up. Although I was there last evening still I wanted to begin the day by paying a visit to Shanti Stupa.
There are many things to do and see in Leh. I did see some of them in the morning like Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Leh Castle, Hall of Fame, Spituk Monastery, Kali Mata Temple and Leh market. After visiting Leh Castle which is a little excursion on the road to Khardung la, I decided to ride on the highest motorable road in the World from Leh to Nubra Valley which passes through the highest motorable pass in the World, Khardung la. Khardung la is 39 kilometers away from Leh and ascent to this pass begins from South Pullu, 15 kilometers short of the pass.
The world’s highest motorable claim (wikipedia)
Reaching Khardung la Pass on my own bike was a long pending dream. Twenty years ago I came very close to achieving it when I reached Leh riding Yamaha RX 100 on Leh Manali Highway in August 1994. It was raining heavily on those days and I was missing my family. My daughter’s 2nd birthday was on 27th August and I knew if I went for ride to Khardung la, I would be one day short and may not reach home to celebrate my daughter’s birthday. So I put off going for Khardung La top during that trip instead chose to ride back home to celebrate my daughter’s birthday.
Standing over the top this day I feel proud that I chose the right thing that day. As the same daughter is helping me in living tension free life. I put off one dream that day and got return gift in the shape of living my dream every day.
By the time I reached Khalsar shadows started lengthening. It started getting dark. The road was along beautiful Shyok River now. It was tarred and good. In the fading light, the surrounding looked rugged, strange and eerie, yet I was riding and enjoying. At the same fear of unknown was fast gripping as the area was totally unknown to me. I was not sure where I was going to stay for the night either. When I began riding in the morning I had Hunder in my mind for night stay, which was still 30 kilometers away.
I did not feel like staying at Khardung and Khalsar and continued riding till a point where there was a turn to the left mentioning Hunder. The drive from thereon was a delight. It was a single tarred road and looked like right through the middle of a river bed. Rode full on. The scenery around was just out of the world. It was a dream come true.
Soon it became dark and the same scenery became scary. Crossed Diskit and reached Hunder and rode through the lanes of Hunder hoping to find someone to enquire about accommodation. It was kind of strange, there were many large single storey buildings but hardly any soul around. It seemed as if the place was abandoned and no one was around. Found dim light coming out from few buildings. I met someone and enquired about accommodation. Checked one or two places, but they did not appeal to me. Decided to head back to Diskit, which looked a better place to me.
And indeed it was. Rode back in the dark of the night to Diskit and found a very nice place to stay. The room was on the upper flour of the building and pretty good. I saw some other travellers staying at the place. Asked for Egg Curry and Chapati in the dinner, which was well prepared and served in my room.
After dinner I walked on the large open roof in front of my room. It looked fantastic. Sky was clear and full of stars. The dim light coming out of windows of few of Nubra homes looked wonderful. After an amazing day’s ride in some of the most beautiful mountains I was having equally wonderful night.
This ends the 8th day of my Solo Bike Ride to Ladakh 2014!!!