Joy of Solo Bike Ride to Ladakh 2014…Day (4)…Killar-Udaipur-Keylong!!!

14th September 2014, Sunday.

After a day’s rest and a visit to Sural Bhatori area of Pangi Valley, it was time to say goodbye to Killar. The morning in Killar was so good that it was bit of pain leaving this charming place. The destination for the day was Keylong. The entire road, thereafter, is along beautiful Chandra Bhaga (Chenab) river.

I was loving riding along beautiful blue Chandrabhaga in that rugged wilderness and bone breaking tough lonely road. Might be because of morning and days rest I was feeling so fresh. It was so wild and beautiful that I was stopping after every few kilometers….savouring the landscape and clicking pictures.

The first water crossing is Mahlu nallah just 1 kilometer after Killar. This nallah is a kind of natural boundary for going to and coming from Killar. The employees of other areas posted in Killar feel a kind of freedom after crossing this nallah when they are posted back to their respective area.

Hotel Chamunda view, Killar….didn’t like it the first night. Felt at home on the 2nd.

Feeling wonderful……just about to leave Killar early in the morning.
Lonely road, eerie landscape, beautiful chandrabhaga river and red knight.
Beautiful Chandrabhaga River.
I wonder how they could have built this road…a miracle really.
Sidh Mandir, around 8 kilometers from Killar. Travelers stop here for paying respect to the deity, rest and tea.
Ah!…………..what a wild beauty. It is very difficult to leave from this site.
See the road……..the chandrabhaga and pedestrian bridge going to some remote village.
Findroo, around 10 kilometer from Killar has few eateries and an auto mechanic shop.
A very dangerous part of the road. The road here is very steep and narrow…fit for a big hearted, skilled driver.
Difficult to find walkers on this road…found one and asked her to click few pictures.
Chandrabhaga flows mostly through very narrow gorges along the steep walls of the mountains.
Beautiful landscape and Chandrabhaga.
New annexe of Cherry Bungalow a beautiful Forest Rest House.
Cherry Bungalow a very beautiful forest rest house….around 15 kilometers from Killar.

This entire ROAD……from Bairagarh to Udaipur (130 kilometer, via Saach Pass) will test your butts and mental strength. This road is one of the toughest I have seen so far. It ranks very close to Kaza-Batal-Manali road. The landscape is eerie and fearsome. Most of the road is along Chandrabhaga river which is wild and beautiful. The road is steep, narrow, slushy, potholed, lonely, full of gushing water streams with danger of falling boulders looming large all the time. The road becomes super dangerous during monsoons.

It is difficult to get immediate help in case of emergency and break down. Mobile connectivity is also very weak. There are ample places to eat all along the route from Killar to Keylong though. Forest Rest Houses and PWD Rest Houses are available almost every 10 kilometers. Shaor is the gateway to Pangi. Purthi is a major village 26 km from Killar. Tindi, 63 km from Killar, is a popular pit stop. Udaipur, 80 km from Killar is the biggest town on the route!!!

Chandrabhaga and beautiful landscape near Purthi.
Chandrabhaga and beautiful landscape near Purthi.
Met a wonderful couple from Holland……Ronald and Rini (, who are travelling all over the world in their SUV (Home on wheels). Got another dream.


Forest check post Shaor….the gateway to Pangi Valley.
Pangi Valley ends here few kilometers from Shaor…Lahaul Valley begins.
Steep and rugged Pangi Valley road and beautiful chandrabhaga.
Chandrabhaga and the Pangi Valley road….just before Tindi.
A very dangerous water crossing just before Tindi.
Tindi, a nice pit stop.
In between Tindi and Udaipur.
I liked these yummy veg momos @30/-…especially that mouth watering chili sauce from homegrown organic vegetables at Trilokinath.
Triloki Nath temple…..sacred for both for hindus and buddhists. There is a diversion to the right at Arat, 8 km from Udaipur. The temple is further 8 km drive from Arat along the left bank of Chandrabhaga River.
Beautiful village enroute Trilokinath temple.
Google map of the route followed for the day….Killar to Keylong.

It was 6pm evening and I was still at Trilokinath temple. Keylong was still 52 kilometers away. So I thought I was in for another night ride on an unknown mountain road. But it was different this time than Bagotu-Killar ride. The road was comparatively good and passed through some prosperous lahauli villages.  At few places in between I tried to find a place for stay, did not find one and continued riding in the night towards Keylong.

Reached Keylong at around 9pm and found a good place for stay on the main Leh-Manali road. It took me around 14 hours to reach 130 kilometers from Killar to Keylong on yet another butt breaking and willpower testing road. Of Course the time taken included numerous photo stops, pit stops and leisure stops. But all in all another memorable ride.

Now I was on the main Manali-Rohtang-Leh route. The only difference was…by following Amritsar-Saach Pass-Killar-Keylong route, I was able to byepass Rohtang Pass.

This ends the 4th day of my Solo Bike Ride to Ladakh 2014!!!


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